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The 2025 LoHi Trek traversed portions of Harrison, Pottawattamie, and Mills counties from April 23-27. This was the fifth annual LoHi Trek, which has now included sections of all seven Iowa Loess Hills counties. The event was inspired by Kelly Madigan’s 2020 hike through Iowa’s Loess Hills. LoHi is short for Lo(ess) Hi(lls). In addition to hiking, the event includes educational programs about conservation, history, geology, and other aspects of the unique landform. About 40 Trekkers camped at Crescent Hill at Hitchcock Nature Center from Wednesday evening through Sunday. Trekkers came from 8 states and 30 zip codes, including as far as Minnesota, Wisconsin, Colorado, Ohio, and Washington. On Wednesday evening, dinner was provided by Juggs BBQ of Onawa. Chad Graeve with Pottawattamie Conservation gave a brief talk about the history and land stewardship of Hitchcock, then led the group to a scenic off-trail ridge not typically explored by the public. (photos by Lance Brisbois, Golden Hills RC&D, unless otherwise noted)    Thursday morning, hikers did an 8-mile loop through Hitchcock Nature Center. The route included parts of the following trails before lunch: Crescent Ridge, Westridge, Ironwood, Wildwoods, Heritage, Bluestem Meander, Angel’s Dead End, Fox Run Ridge, Hohneke, Oak Avenue, and Moonseed.            Block 16 catered lunch at the new Heartwood Pavilion.  After lunch, the hike continued on the Lodge, Badger Ridge, and Lotus Loop trails back to camp. The weather was gray, but trekkers were all finished and back at camp before severe storms developed in the area later in the afternoon.        A severe thunderstorm warning, tornado warning, and flash flood warning all hit the area, and the group sheltered in the basement of the Crescent Hill Lodge. This happened while some Trekkers were doing a yoga session. This was the first LoHi with severe weather, and we were fortunate to have a safe shelter available. We are grateful to Pottawattamie County Emergency Management for keeping us updated on the weather and ensuring our safety! We lucked out and avoided the worst weather, but heavy rains lasted through the evening. Thursday evening dinner was provided by Iowa Western Culinary Arts program. Nic Salick with The Nature Conservancy gave a presentation about TNC, and discussed birding in the Loess Hills.  Friday morning, Nic returned to lead a group birding walk at Hitchcock.  After lunch (also catered by Iowa Western), the group shuttled to Old Town Conservation Area in Harrison County and hiked a 5-mile loop that included stretches of the Buffalo Run, Stagecoach Loop, Bendy Oak, Bird Dog, and Blazing Star trails.          Friday evening dinner was catered by Rotisserie Urban Bistro of Omaha. Trekkers were treated to an interactive improv session by Big Canvas Comedy.  Saturday morning, the group shuttled to Council Bluffs for a day of urban hiking. Glenn Pollock and Tabitha Panas discussed the history and stewardship work at Vincent Bluff State Preserve before the group hiked through it. Tabitha also discussed a remnant prairie located in Fairview Cemetery, which the trekkers passed by that day. The route included a piece of private land with special, pre-arranged permission, then some city streets and sidewalks through residential neighborhoods to the trails of Fairmount Park.        From Fairmount, the trek went through downtown Council Bluffs, where hikers had lunch at various restaurants. Some of the group stopped for a tour of the Historic General Dodge House.      The last mile was uphill to the historic Black Angel Statue, then ending at the Lincoln Monument.   Saturday evening dinner was held at the Loess Hills Lodge at Hitchcock Nature Center. Malvern artist Anna Stoysich led a printmaking activity, and trekkers each made their own 2025-LoHi-branded bandana as a souvenir. Block 16 provided dinner on Saturday.   An important feature of the LoHi is a processing circle during which hikers share ways they have been impacted, both big and small, by the experience. It is often emotional, because for many the LoHi Trek is more than a hike— it is a life-changing event unlike anything they’ve experienced.  Sunday morning, the group shuttled to Folsom Point Preserve for their final hike. The route included a loop at Folsom Point, managed by The Nature Conservancy, and a portion of Green Hill Wildlife Management Area.             Thank you to everyone who helped make this year’s Trek a success, including:
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Golden Hills Resource Conservation & Development is pleased to announce the appointment of Angie Remington as its permanent Executive Director. Angie officially began her role on January 24, 2025, bringing with her a wealth of experience in nonprofit leadership and a passion for conservation. Angie joins Golden Hills with two decades of nonprofit experience, including her most recent role as the Director of Strategy and Development for the Nebraska Civic Engagement Table. She is also the former board chair of the Earth Day Omaha Coalition, now part of the Green Omaha Coalition. With a strong background in nonprofit management, fund development and organizational culture, she is poised to strengthen Golden Hills’s impact in Southwest Iowa and further its mission to protect and preserve the region’s unique natural landscapes. "We are thrilled to welcome Angie to our team," said Susan Miller, board member of Golden Hills. "Her leadership and passion for conservation will be instrumental as we continue to grow our efforts in land stewardship, water resources, local foods, and outdoor recreation and tourism throughout Southwest Iowa." As Executive Director, Angie will oversee the organization’s daily operations, guide strategic planning, lead fundraising initiatives, and work closely with local communities, stakeholders, and partners to advance conservation goals. The new Executive Director will also be a key figure in securing funding for ongoing and future projects, ensuring the long-term sustainability of Golden Hill’s work. "As an Iowa native myself, I am excited to join Golden Hills and to collaborate with the team, the community, and all our supporters," said Remington. "Together, we will continue to protect the unique biodiversity of Southwest Iowa, create meaningful environmental opportunities, and build a more sustainable future for generations to come." Welcome, Angie!  Scenic byways are routes that encourage travelers to leave the busy highways and explore more scenic routes showcasing natural and cultural resources. In this series, Golden Hills suggests ideas of things to notice while you're exploring Western Skies Scenic Byway. See other posts in our 'reading the landscape along WSSB:
Town development & layout: While many railroads in the region are no longer active, their development facilitated the growth of most rural communities in western Iowa. Rail lines tended to follow the lay of the land, often along river valleys. When hills were unavoidable, cuts were made into the hills, and the rails were built on an embankment to reduce the slopes. Even railroads that have been abandoned for decades can still be seen from the ground and in aerial & LIDAR imagery due to the amount of earthwork required for their construction. Town streets and county roads, on the other hand, are commonly aligned at right angles with cardinal directions. Most small-towns have a main street that has historically been the center of commerce and civic activities. In many railroad towns, the “T-town” style is common, where the business district extends perpendicularly from the railroad where the train depot was once located. Buildings on the Main Streets fill the block, although some gaps my exist where decrepit buildings have been razed. The Main Street buildings are usually one or two stories tall, with the occasional third story, especially in larger communities. These areas often have wide sidewalks and are great walkable areas for shopping, dining, and other business.  Railroad town layouts. From John C. Hudson's "Town's of the Western Railroads." Click image for source link.  Panama is an example of a railroad "T-town." Main Street (highlighted red) runs perpendicular to the railroad (in yellow). According to John Hudson's Plains Country Towns, a Standard Railroad block was 300 feet square, 140-foot deep lot with 20 foot alley, divided into six 50-foot wide residential or 12 25-foot business lots. County seats, often the largest town in the county, were frequently laid out with a business district surrounding the county courthouse. As you drive through the towns along Western Skies Scenic Byway, see if you can figure out how each town was laid out and where the railroad was. As is the case across America, following World War II, development has shifted to a more suburban-style model both among housing, commerce, and industry. Today, even in small towns, significant growth has occurred along highways on the edge of town, decentralizing the business districts. New housing developments also follow more suburban patterns with larger homes on larger lots, spaced farther apart than residential neighborhoods in town. The city of Harlan's growth pattern reflects these trends. The historic downtown square in the northeastern part of town is surrounded by a tightly-organized, walkable street grid system. Newer development along highways 44 & 59 is more spread out and designed primarily for automobile use.  Satellite image & map of Harlan, showing changing development patterns over the years. The types of business vary across communities as well. All businesses have a threshold population that depends on factors such as proximity to the nearest similar business. In general, larger communities have a greater variety of businesses, including stores and restaurants. Small communities often have a bar/restaurant, gas station, bank, church, and farm co-op, but the smallest communities may not even have those. Incorporated communities have a city hall and post office, which are usually located on the Main Street. Most communities in this part of Iowa peaked in population around or before 1930, and have had fluctuating or declining populations since then. Exceptions include those with easiest access to the metro areas, where people can live in a small town and easily commute to their metro jobs. Commuting has also led to an increase in people building new homes on acreages, which in some cases has led to rural population growth even while the nearest city populations decline. At one point in time, the number of children on farmstead necessitated one-room schoolhouses on nearly every one-mile section. The old adage about ‘walking uphill both ways’ harkens back to this layout! Over time, these schools consolidated, primarily into the nearby small towns. Although many schoolhouses are long gone, some have been maintained as historic structures.  Existing one-room schoolhouses along WSSB. Click image to view source map. In recent decades, further consolidation has required multiple towns to have shared school systems, in some cases covering large parts of multiple counties. Sometimes these school districts have built new school campuses out in the country to serve multiple towns. Many small, rural Iowa communities also have public libraries. Iowa, in fact, has among the highest public library visits per capita of all states! While you’re driving the Byway, stop in and check out the local libraries. They often have rare and hard-to-find books and documents about local history to help you learn about the local area.  Iowa's public libraries. Click image to view source. Churches are another a dominant feature along the Western Skies corridor. Most towns have at least one, usually multiple, churches, and many churches also exist out in the country. The Western Skies corridor was settled primarily by German and Danish immigrants, and many churches reflect this heritage. The German colonies in Shelby County each have a Catholic church. The area around Elk Horn and Kimballton has Danish Lutheran churches. As long as people have lived in the region, people have also died in the region. Native burial sites are typically difficult to see anymore, and many have been plowed under crop fields. Since European colonization, designated cemeteries have been the main form of human burials. Most towns and churches have their own cemeteries nearby. Some early pioneer cemeteries still contain small remnant prairies. Notice how many cemeteries you see while crossing the western Iowa countryside. Although the entire Byway corridor would be considered rural by most people, it is technically anchored by the two largest metropolitan populations in Iowa. Harrison County is part of the Omaha-Council Bluffs Metropolitan Statistical Area (MSA), with a population of nearly one million people. Guthrie County is part of the Des Moines-West Des Moines MSA, with almost 700,000 residents. At their closest point, between northeastern Pottawattamie and southwestern Guthrie counties, the two metro areas are less than 25 miles apart. Harrison and Guthrie are rural counties, but economic and social ties to the metro areas have led government agencies to include them as part of the greater metro areas. Shelby and Audubon counties are considered more rural.  Rural-urban continuum codes for Iowa counties. Click image to view source. Natural & Agricultural landscapes: Although most of western Iowa was prairie, scattered woodlands did exist, particularly along river valleys. Nearly all of these trees were cut for railroad, farmstead, and town construction as settlement began. Few of the trees you see today are pre-settlement, and those that are were likely cut at some point and grew back with two or more trunks. As you cross the landscape, note that there are often more trees and woody vegetation on north- and east-facing slopes. These areas have less sunlight and are slightly cooler and wetter, on average, compared to south- and west-facing hillsides. There are often more trees on the eastern sides of river valleys, due to the fact waterways provided an obstacle to prairie fires driven by prevailing westerly winds. Farmsteads often have windbreaks of coniferous trees along the north and west sides to buffer the cold winter winds. Within the agricultural landscape, corn and soybean fields are the dominant crops. Many of the steepest slopes, particularly in the Loess Hills of Harrison County and the rolling hills of southern Audubon and Guthrie counties, still have significant areas of pasture land. Iowa’s once-diversified small farms have largely been consolidated and converted to few crops. Livestock that were once commonly seed throughout the rural landscape are now mostly raised indoors in confined feeding operations and out of sight. Barbed-wire fencing is the most common physical divider between farms and paddocks. With fewer livestock on the land and increased mechanization of rowcrop farming, many fences have been removed in recent decades. On farms, common buildings include corn cribs, silos, and livestock feeder barns. Modern machine sheds are typically metal structures used for storing machinery. The Hausbarn is a unique historic site in Manning demonstrating a type of farm structure that combined the farmers’ home with a livestock barn. Barn quilts are a common sight, especially in Shelby County. The Poplar Rural District in eastern Shelby and western Audubon county exemplifies the settlement patterns laid out by local Danish farmers. This district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The nearby communities of Elk Horn and Kimballton make up the largest rural Danish settlement in the U.S. Tractors, combines, sprayers, other modern farm equipment are common along Western Skies, especially during the spring planting and fall harvest seasons. At certain times of year, you’ll see haybales dotting the pasture lands. Aerial application of seed and chemicals has become more common, and you may see airplanes flying low over the fields. Municipal airports are still fairly common in rural areas, such as those near Missouri Valley, Harlan, Audubon, and Guthrie Center.  Iowa aviation map. Click image to view source. Vineyards were once much more common in western Iowa, but today you can see a couple along Western Skies, including near Elk Horn and Stuart. You’ll still see the occasional old farm windmill, like the one included in Western Skies Scenic Byway logo and signage. Today, modern wind turbines are much larger and wind farms cover many square miles.  Nearly every small town has at least one city park, with larger communities tending to have multiple parks in different neighborhoods. County and state parks and wildlife areas also dot the landscape, particularly in areas that are less suitable for farming. Another thing you may notice while driving Western Skies Scenic Byway are county fairgrounds. Each county has their own—often, but not always, located in the county seat. Harrison County’s is located in Missouri Valley, Shelby County’s is in Harlan, Audubon County’s in Audubon, and Guthrie County’s fairgrounds are in Guthrie Center. Infrastructure:
Today many of the bridges on state highways have been upgraded to modern standards, but if you venture off onto gravel and dirt roads you may see many other styles that were historically used. Iowa DOT has an historic bridges webpage identifies some of the types of bridges to look for as you drive Western Skies Scenic Byway. Look for other types of infrastructure while your driving the Byway. Notice how some small towns still have more historic styles of street lighting while the highway lighting is more modern. Other common types of infrastructure and utilities are visible across the rural landscape. Power lines follow most roads. Larger transmission lines connect larger cities. Cellphone towers have gone up in strategic spots throughout rural Iowa. Tornado sirens warn residents and visitors of severe storms. Some towns still have a noon and/or 6pm ‘bell’ where the sirens sound daily. On the edge of most towns you’ll find a sewage wasterwater treatment facility. Sourcewater well fields provide drinking water to communities, and Regional Water systems have become more common. Still, many farms and rural homesteads have their own well systems. Counties typically have their own landfills, and usually recycling bins in town. Rock quarries exist in several places across the Byway. Some have been filled with water and now provide recreational opportunities. Mining is generally not common, except for fill dirt. Guthrie County at one time had numerous coal mines. One site at Whiterock Conservancy in Guthrie County still has visible coal slag. Water towers and grain elevators are often the most dominant feature while approaching a small town. Some very small towns are unincorporated, meaning they lack a city government. Most towns, though, have a city council and mayor. Each six-by-six mile township has its own board of trustees too. Each county is governed by an elected Board of Supervisors. The city halls and county courthouses are where councils and boards meet to make decisions. Each county has an engineer and county road system, and strategically-located ‘county sheds,’ where machinery like snowplows are housed. Iowa DOT has similar ‘state sheds’ across the state. This post is intended to help you to see and understand the landscape you see while traveling Western Skies Scenic Byway. Take time to try and read the landscape while you're exploring western Iowa, and let us know what you notice! The LoHi Trek is an annual multi-day hiking and camping excursion in western Iowa’s unique Loess Hills. This year, the Trek took place from October 17 through 20 in Mills and Fremont counties. The route included scenic gravel and dirt roads, state parks, and wildlife areas. . The idea for LoHi, which is short for Lo(ess) Hi(lls), started when Monona County resident Kelly Madigan hiked the length of Iowa's Loess Hills landform in 2020. Read about Kelly's journey and the previous LoHi Treks here. Trekkers arrived on the evening of Wednesday, October 16 to camp in Mills County. Due to a fairly large area without public lands, private landowner Anne Stoysich allowed the group to camp on her property. Prior to the Trek, several participants assisted with land stewardship and invasive species management on the Stoysich property as a token of appreciation. Each evening, the group received a briefing about the following day's route to help understand the route and logistics. During each leg of the journey, a lead hiker familiar with the route led the group, and many areas were marked with flagging tape. A 'sweep' at the end of the line made sure everyone made it through safely and picked up the flagging tape. Maps were given to trekkers prior to the event that could be viewed on mobile apps, and paper maps were also available. Trekkers were given information about Leave No Trace Principles and how to safely hike in the different areas, which included everything from well-maintained trails to public roadways to wildlife areas without designated trails. Hikers were checked in each morning and evening, and were encouraged to find at least one hiking buddy for safety. The group included a mix of previous trekkers and new ones. Throughout the event, participants stepped up to volunteer for a variety of needed tasks to assist the organizers.  Trekkers watch a moonrise over the prairie. Photo by Lance Brisbois. Thursday morning, after coffee from J’s Coffee and a light breakfast, the hike began. Participants were shuttled with support from Faith in Action and local volunteers to the west side of the Loess Hills along the Missouri River floodplain, where they immediately went up Raleigh Road, locally known as “Lake Hill Road.” This road includes an iconic, deep road cut with high walls of loess forming a canyon along the roadway.  Hikers starting up Lake Hill Road. photo by Lance Brisbois  Lake Hill Road. Photo by Lance Brisbois  Lake Hill Road. photo by Lance Brisbois  Entrance to Lake Hill Road. photo by Seth Brooks. The route then continued on gravel roads to the historic Waubonsie Church, where lunch was catered by Classic Cafe from Malvern.  Trekkers hiking a gravel road in Mills County. photo by Lance Brisbois.  Trekkers on a gravel road in Mills County. photos by Lance Brisbois.  Trekkers hiked part of the Waubonsie Loop of Loess Hills National Scenic Byway. photo by Seth Brooks Local resident Joyce Bolin gave a brief history of Waubonsie Church, which now only hosts two services per year (Christmas and Easter) and occasional weddings. Tara Mitchell with the Prairie Band Potawatomi Nation discussed the tribe’s history in the local area, and the church’s namesake, Chief Waubonsie, of the Potawatomie Tribe. Local landowner and camp host Anne Stoysich also discussed local history of the area.  Waubonsie Church. photo by Lance Brisbois  Joyce Bolin discusses the history of Waubonsie Church. photo by Lance Brisbois  Tara Mitchell, Prairie Band Potawatomie Nation, discusses local history to trekkers at Waubonsie Church. photo by Lance Brisbois Following lunch, trekkers passed through what locals call “Hastie Hollow,” another deep road cut through the Loess Hills on Pathfield Road.  Hastie Hollow. photo by Lance Brisbois  Hastie Hollow. photo by Lance Brisbois From there, they continued on gravel roads along the Waubonsie Loop of Loess Hills National Scenic Byway, and nearly a mile through prairies and woods on private trails to their campsite on private land. Dinner was provided by Classic Cafe. Thursday's hike totaled about 9 miles.  Hikers emerge from Hastie Hollow. photo by Lance Brisbois  Trekkers on Waubonsie Loop of Loess Hills National Scenic Byway. photo by Lance Brisbois  Hiker on Waubonsie Loop of Loess Hills National Scenic Byway. photo by Lance Brisbois  Trekkers on privately owned trails in Mills County. photo by Lance Brisbois  Trekkers on private land in Mills County. photo by Lance Brisbois  Campsite in Mills County. photo by Lance Brisbois  Campsite in Mills County. photo by Lance Brisbois  Evening briefing at the campsite. photo by Lance Brisbois Friday morning, everyone packed up camp and drove south to Fremont County. There, they hiked a loop through Blackburn State Park and the adjacent Green Hollow Wildlife Management Area (WMA).  Green Hollow WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois  Green Hollow WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois  Green Hollow WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois Friday lunch was hosted at the Blackburn gazebo, again provided by Classic Cafe. Iowa DNR wildlife biologist Matt Dollison presented about the acquisition of Blackburn State Park, and his team's work with ecological restoration in southwest Iowa, including on several WMAs that the trekkers visited.  Lunch at Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Lunch at Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois Brilliant fall colors in the woods and prairies offered stunning views for the hikers back south through Blackburn State Park. Friday's route was about 5 miles.  Blackburn State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Blackburn State Park entrance. photo by Lance Brisbois After hiking, the group again drove south, where they camped at Waubonsie State Park and the nearby Eli Slusher WMA for Friday and Saturday evenings.  Trekkers caravan through rural Mills County. photo by Kelly Madigan Friday dinner was held at Wa-Shaw tee Lodge at Waubonsie, provided by the Hamburg Kiwanis and Hamburg Hometown Pride. Several trekkers presented poetry readings of their own poems. Saturday and Sunday breakfasts and coffee were provided by the Hamburg Community Schools’ Culinary Arts program, also hosted at Wa-Shawtee Lodge at Waubonsie S.P.  Dinner at Wa-Shawtee Lodge at Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois Saturday’s hike started on the northeast side of Waubonsie State Park and explored much of the equestrian area north of Highway 2.  Trekkers heading into Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois Hikers enjoyed a refreshing stop at Mincer Orchard for apples, cider, and other treats.  Hikers enjoying a stop at Mincer Orchard. photo by Lance Brisbois They then continued south through Waubonsie State Park, including the Valley Trail and scenic overlook, with lunch at the Overlook Shelter provided by Hamburg Culinary Arts.  Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois   Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois At lunch on Saturday, trekker and local artist Anna Stoysich discussed her experience with the Artist in Residence program she participated in at Waubonsie. Park Manager Matt Moles also discussed the benefits the program has provided the park.  Lunch at Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Local artist Anna Stoysich discussed the Waubonsie Artist in Residence program. photo by Lance Brisbois  Each trekker received a bandana with the route map. photo by Lance Brisbois  Group photo taken by drone. provided by Kyle Ranney After lunch on Saturday, the group hiked more of the trails at Waubonsie, including the iconic prairie bluffs of Sunset Ridge overlooking the Missouri River floodplain into Nebraska.  Sunset Ridge at Waubonsie S.P. Photo by Nick Hildenbrandt  Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  They then ventured into Eli Slusher WMA immediately to the south of Waubonsie S.P. Saturday's hike was nearly 9 miles.  Eli Slusher WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois  Eli Slusher WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois   Eli Slusher WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois  Eli Slusher WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois Dinner on Saturday evening included live music by Kelly McGovern and Brian Hull with Kelly Oh Brian band from Lincoln, NE, food from nearby Whiskey Springs, and desserts from Hamburg resident Angela Hullman.  Saturday dinner at Wa-Shawtee Lodge at Waubonsie State Park. photo by Lance Brisbois  Kelly Oh Brian playing live music during Saturday dinner. photo by Lance Brisbois Many trekkers were delighted to catch a faint glimpse of the Tsuchinshan-Atlas comet after sunset.  Comet sighting. photo by Lance Brisbois Sunday morning started along Bluff Road at Slusher WMA (where Saturday ended), then went west and south into Draper Bottoms WMA. This wildlife area includes floodplain wetlands, with a panoramic view of the Loess Hills to the east. Hikers had conversations about the geology and history of the area, including the importance of wetlands for wildlife habitat and flood reduction.   Draper Bottoms WMA. photo by Nick Hildenbrandt.  Draper Bottoms WMA. photo by Sharon Carson From Draper, trekkers headed into the town of Hamburg, where lunch was hosted by Old Hamburg High/Cornelius Orthodox Christian Retreat Center.  Trekkers entering Old Hamburg High for Sunday lunch. photo by Lance Brisbois  Lunch at Old Hamburg High. photo by Lance Brisbois Following lunch, the hike went through O.S. Wing WMA, the southernmost WMA in the Iowa Loess Hills. The area included prairies and woods, with epic views of Nishnabotna and Missouri river valleys.  O.S. Wing WMA photo by Lance Brisbois  O.S. Wing WMA. photo by Lance Brisbois  O.S. Wing WMA. photo by Sharon Carson  O.S. Wing WMA photo by Lance Brisbois  O.S. Wing WMA photo by Lance Brisbois The Trek ended just south of O.S. Wing at the Missouri State line, and the southern terminus of Loess Hills National Scenic Byway. The Sunday hike was around 7 miles.  Trekkers ending at the Missouri state line. photo by Lance Brisbois  Trekkers ending at the Missouri state line. photo by Lance Brisbois You can also find a firsthand account of the event in this post by Trekker Patrick Swanson.
Thank you to everyone who helped make this year’s LoHi Trek a success, including:
As you drive along Western Skies Scenic Byway, you may not realize how the road systems are laid out across the landscape. The system starts in 1785, decades before Iowa was a state. “The Land Ordinance of 1785 was passed by the U.S. Congress under the Articles of Confederation. It laid out the process by which lands west of the Appalachian Mountains were to be surveyed and sold. The method of creating townships and sections within townships was used for all U.S. land after 1785” (Source: State Historical Society of Iowa). According to USGS, “The Public Land Survey System (PLSS) is a way of subdividing and describing land in the United States. PLSS surveys, which are available for portions of land in 30 southern and western states, are made by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The PLSS typically divides land into 6-mile-square townships. Townships are subdivided into 36 one-mile-square sections. Sections can be further subdivided into quarter sections, quarter-quarter sections, or irregular government lots.” As you drive east-west or north-south, you will typically cross a county gravel road every mile. There are some exceptions, however, such as when a river or other geologic feature creates a challenge to this grid, or where roads have been closed due to lack of local traffic. In some cases, the roads are still open but have become minimum-maintenance dirt roads. The Homestead Act of 1862 gave settlers 160 acres of land for free with the requirement that they farm the land for at least five years. This act used the PLSS with sections of 640 acres; quarter-sections of 160 acres, and “forties” of quarters of quarters. If you’ve ever heard the term “the back forty,” it’s a reference to this system! While a grid is easy to understand, it faces some challenges in the rolling topography of western Iowa. This “system has necessitated greater expenditures for such rural services as highways, telephone and power lines, mail delivery, and school-bus routes. In rough, dissected areas it has posed problems in the layout of transportation lines, and it has encouraged farmers to lay out their fields against the grain of the country, to the dismay of conservationists” (Source: John Fraser Hart, The Rural Landscape, p. 155). Imposing a grid of straight lines is difficult on a sphere, so “correction lines” were established within the PLSS grid. “A township line established every 24 miles north and south of the baseline as part of the U.S. Public Land Survey System and Canada's Dominion Land Survey. Surveyors created correction lines where they readjusted range lines to compensate for the convergence of meridians.” For a more detailed explanation of this system, check out this post.  Harrison County township & range map. Source: https://iagenweb.org/harrison/twp/rangemap.htm The county road system in each county is based on the mile-by-mile grid with numbered and named roads running perpendicular to each other:
 example of roads system in Audubon County. source: https://iowadot.gov/maps/msp/pdf/audubon-co.pdf At a higher level, the county highway system in Iowa has its own arrangement. The tier of counties where Western Skies lies includes east-west roads starting with the letter “F,” and north-south roads ranging from “K” in western Harrison County to “L” in most of Harrison County, “M” in Shelby County, “N” in Audubon and Guthrie counties, and “P” in eastern Guthrie County. If you are driving on F-16, for example, you can know that you are traveling on an east-west road.  Many people intuitively know that taking a walk in nature is beneficial, but significant research in recent years has confirmed this. Natural sights and sounds can reduce stress, improve mood, and improve overall mental health. One of the best summaries of some of these benefits is the 2015 paper “How might contact with nature promote human health? Promising mechanisms and a possible central pathway” by Ming Kuo. These excerpts from Kuo discuss several ways nature improves health, with supplemental source links: “The sights and sounds of nature also have important physiological impacts. Window views and images of nature reduce sympathetic nervous activity and increase parasympathetic activity (e.g., Gladwell et al., 2012; Brown et al., 2013), restore attention (e.g., Berto, 2005), and promote healing from surgery (Ulrich, 1984). Sounds of nature played over headphones increase parasympathetic activation (Alvarsson et al., 2010). These sympathetic and parasympathetic effects drive the immune system’s behavior (Kenney and Ganta, 2014), with long-term health consequences. Didehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) increases after a forest walk (Li et al., 2011); DHEA has cardio protective, anti-obesity, and anti-diabetic properties (Bjørnerem et al., 2004). Similarly, time in nature increases adiponectin (Li et al., 2011), which protects against atherosclerosis, among other things, and the immune system’s anti-cancer (so-called “Natural Killer,” or NK) cells and related factors. NK cells play important protective roles in cancer, viral infections, pregnancy, and other health outcomes (Orange and Ballas, 2006). Chronically elevated blood glucose carries multiple health risks, including blindness, nerve damage, and kidney failure (Sheetz and King, 2002). The powerful effects of a walk in a forest on blood glucose are particularly striking. Two 2-h forest walks on consecutive days increased the number and activity of anti-cancer NK cells by 50 and 56%, respectively, and activity remained significantly boosted even a month after returning to urban life — 23% higher than before the walks (Li, 2010). Moreover, extended time in a forest decreased inflammatory cytokines implicated in chronic disease by roughly one-half (Mao et al., 2012). Urban walks have no such effect.”  According to the American Psychological Association, “green spaces near schools promote cognitive development in children and green views near children’s homes promote self-control behaviors. Adults assigned to public housing units in neighborhoods with more green space showed better attentional functioning than those assigned to units with less access to natural environments. And experiments have found that being exposed to natural environments improves working memory, cognitive flexibility and attentional control.” APA also suggests that “children who lived in neighborhoods with more green space had a reduced risk of many psychiatric disorders later in life.” Additionally, “contact with nature is associated with increases in happiness, subjective well-being, positive affect, positive social interactions and a sense of meaning and purpose in life, as well as decreases in mental distress.” There’s even some evidence that time in nature can make people more cooperative and generous. Interactions with nature can positively influence behaviour, academic performance and social skills in children, something that could be reflected in school curricula (e.g., environmental experience components) and could have broader benefits, such as reducing bullying in schools. Another study found that “participants who listened to nature sounds like crickets chirping and waves crashing performed better on demanding cognitive tests than those who listened to urban sounds like traffic and the clatter of a busy café.” There is also consistent evidence from birth cohort studies that higher greenness during pregnancy is positively associated with birth weight.  Nature and Forest Therapy is a burgeoning activity across the world. “Forest therapy is based on forest bathing, or shinrin-yoku, a Japanese practice that has garnered attention for its ability to immerse people into their natural environment. It helps people take a deep breath and rediscover our true essence, to remember our purpose and how we can serve the world. By immersing ourselves in nature and engaging our senses, we can reap the many benefits of forest therapy such as improved immune function, cardiovascular and respiratory health, and reduced stress and depression.” “The results of studies performed on the physiological effects of Shinrin-yoku show that forest environments could lower concentrations of cortisol, lower pulse rate, lower blood pressure, increase parasympathetic nerve activity, and lower sympathetic nerve activity compared with city settings. The results of the physiological measurements suggest that Shinrin-yoku can aid in effectively relaxing the human body, and the psychological effects of forest areas have been correlated with the various physical environmental factors of forest. The studies of Shinrin-yoku provide valuable insights into the relationship between forests and human health. Incorporating nature into cities has long been known to provide health benefits of improved air quality and reduce the urban heat island effect. There’s even evidence that natural landscapes in cities can help reduce crime rates. “Comparing buildings with different levels of vegetation, those with high levels of vegetation recorded 52% fewer total crimes, 48% fewer property crimes, and 56% fewer violent crimes than buildings with low levels of vegetation. Even modest amounts of greenery were associated with lower crime rates.” “These results suggest that vegetation is indeed related to criminal activity across the city, and that vegetation abundance is associated with lower crime rates for assault, robbery, and burglary. The association of vegetation with crime rates for these offense types remains even after accounting for the relationship of socioeconomic indicators of disadvantage, including poverty and educational attainment.” Further, walks in forested, but not urban areas, reduce the levels of health risk factors, specifically inflammatory cytokines (Mao et al., 2012), and elevated blood glucose (Ohtsuka et al., 1998). Inflammatory cytokines are released by the immune system in response to threat, and have been implicated in diabetes, cardiovascular disease, and depression.  Tree-lined streets and small city parks can offer little bits of nature for urban residents. photo by Lance Brisbois One other factors contributing to nature’s healing properties are the smells and ions associated with nature. “Many plants give off phytoncides — antimicrobial volatile organic compounds — which reduce blood pressure, alter autonomic activity, and boost immune functioning, among other effects. The air in forested and mountainous areas, and near moving water, contains high concentrations of negative air ions, which reduce depression among other effects. These environments also contain mycobacterium vaccae, a microorganism that appears to boost immune functioning.” Being on or near water in nature also has many benefits, in what some call the “Blue Mind Theory.”  Sun exposure, with some basic safety precautions (avoid sunburn and don’t look directly at the sun!) generally has many health benefits too. Getting outdoors and seeing sunlight first thing in the morning is one of the best ways to regulate circadian rhythms and develop healthy sleep patterns. Vitamin D is created by sunlight on the skin, and food and supplement sources of vitamin D are not nearly as bioavailable. More than 40% of Americans are estimated to have a Vitamin D deficiency. Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, outdoor activities were seen as much safer than indoor ones. Risks of spreading COVID and many other illnesses are significantly lower outdoors with fresh air and sunlight. Today, most people spend too much time indoors, inactive, and looking at blue-light screens. Air quality is often significantly worse indoors compared to outdoors, with volatile organic compounds, mold, and particulate matter from things like paint, carpet, plastics, and other materials. Simply opening windows and adding indoor plants can help improve indoor air quality. Another interesting affect of nature is the activity of viewing fractals. Fractals, or repeating patterns, are abundant in nature, such as in tree branches and snowflakes. Viewing fractals has been shown to reduce stress and help people heal more quickly.  examples of fractals in nature. Image source: https://medium.com/re-write/exploring-fractal-patterns-e161081f9723 Cardio and strength training can also be done outdoors combining the benefits of both. Instead of a treadmill, stationary bike, or stair-climbing machine, try hiking, biking, or jogging in a local park. Getting out in nature with friends and family can provide much-needed human connectedness and socialization in a culture of increasingly isolated and lonely individuals. Nature can also, on the other hand, provide people a way to get out and away from the stresses created by the hustle & bustle of modern life. Time in nature often provides us with a sense of awe. “The physiological experience of awe – goosebumps, dropped jaws, caught breath – is wonderful in itself, but research suggests that regularly feeling wonder can have a range of benefits for our physical and mental wellbeing as well as increasing our compassion, generosity and critical thinking ability.” With all of these benefits, it’s no surprise that some doctors are now prescribing time outdoors for a variety of physical & mental health ailments, including the Park Rx and Prescription Trails programs. On a broader scale, populations with easy access to nature tend to be healthier. Iowa is the most physically-altered (least natural) state. It is likely not a coincidence, then, that Iowa has some of the least-healthy counties in the U.S., and the second-highest cancer rate. Integrating nature back into the landscape of Iowa could help us become healthier, happier, and safer.  County health rankings for Iowa. Source: https://www.countyhealthrankings.org/health-data/iowa?year=2024 Other links & resources on this topic:
Many farms across Iowa are working to build healthy soils, improve water quality, and more through regenerative agricultural practices. Here are a few examples from farms we've visited recently. Hawkeye Buffalo & Cattle Ranch near Fredericksburg has about 30 bison, 20 hereford cattle, and some crop and hay ground. Bison were the original prairie grazers, with a population in the tens of millions–possibly 100 million or more! After colonization, however, their numbers dwindled to only a few hundred. Restoration efforts, including many privately-owned ranches like Hawkeye, have increased the bison population back to a few hundred thousand.  Cattle at Hawkeye Buffalo & Cattle Ranch. Photo by Lance Brisbois  Cattle at Hawkeye Buffalo & Cattle Ranch. Photo by Lance Brisbois Joia Food & Fiber Farm near Charles City is another regenerative Iowa farm implementing numerous innovative practices. Wendy Johnson’s grandparents owned the farm and Wendy moved back to run it. The achieved Organic certification in 2014 and have been adding more organic acres since then. The farm had been only corn and soy, but they have added oats into their rotation. They have also added pasture land, and incorporated polypay and ile-de-France sheep. Joia also has cattle that run through the paddocks after the sheep, and custom-graze some Hereford cows. Joia’s livestock are Certified Grass-fed and Animal Welfare Approved. They run about 100 chickens at a time as well. Joia is one of the first farms in Iowa growing kernza, a perennial grain with deep root systems. They have noticed much more birds and wildlife in the kernza fields compared to other surrounding crops. In addition to livestock, Joia has a micro orchard with chestnut, pawpaw, persimmon, & other tree crops, as well as a silvopasture of hardwood species. Their enhanced windbreak also includes plums, elderberry, serviceberry, and choke berries.  Farmer Wendy Johnson at Joia Food Farm. photo by Lance Brisbois  Enhanced windbreak at Joia Food Farm. Photo by Lance Brisbois Ancestral Farms recently moved from near Waverly to Clarke County, south of Des Moines. Owner Matt Hatala is redefining modern hog farming by rejecting the conventional use of confinement buildings, opting instead to raise pigs on pasture and in the woods. Ancestral Farms' commitment goes beyond simply returning pigs to their natural environment; they exclusively breed Heritage Old Line genetics, harkening back to an era when meat quality was paramount in the pork industry. This dedication, coupled with a diet supplemented only with non-GMO feed, results in pork with unparalleled taste and marbling, a quality rarely found in grocery stores or even most butcher shops. Looking ahead, Ancestral Farms plans to establish a silvopasture system next spring, enhancing the habitat not only for their hogs but also for the diverse wildlife that thrives on their farm.  Pigs at Ancestral Farms. photo by Lance Brisbois  Matt Hatala leading a farm tour at Ancestral Farms. photo by Lance Brisbois Hoksey Native Seeds is based in Jasper County and grows a wide variety of native grasses and forbs. They specialize in local ecotype species and custom-design mixes for their customers. Their customers include farmers and landowners who implement Conservation Reserve Program and hunting plots, as well as smaller-scale backyard gardeners, native lawns, and more. They also have a popular conservation podcast, the Prairie Farm Pod.  Field of butterfly milkweed at Hoksey Native Seed. photo by Lance Brisbois  Field of echinacea at Hoksey Native Seed. photo by Lance Brisbois Golden Hills is working with farmers in southwest Iowa to implement regenerative practices through our Historically Underserved Farmer program. This includes innovative practices like some of those mentioned above, including diversifying crop and livestock systems. Learn more here.
Western Iowa has many places for the public to explore and enjoy the great outdoors. These include parks, trails, wildlife areas, lakes, rivers, and more. Ownership and management of these amenities vary widely, including federal, state, county, and city governments, to nonprofits and other private owners. This post aims to help clarify some of the differences. There are many exceptions to the ‘rules,’ however, so you can always contact the local site manager before visiting if you have questions. If you aren’t sure what activities are or are not allowed at a specific site, contact the land manager directly to make sure you’re following the rules. Iowa Department of Natural Resources is the state agency that manages state-owned conservation and recreation lands. These include:
 Prairie Rose State Park in Shelby County. Owned and Managed by Iowa DNR. photo by Lance Brisbois
 Loess Hills Wildlife Area in Monona County. photo by Lance Brisbois State Preserves: Iowa’s state preserves “are dedicated for the permanent protection of significant natural and cultural features. Most are open to hiking and photography…Many preserves do not contain officially established trails, but an informal footpath often leads from the parking lot toward prominent features.  Dinsen Prairie State Preserve in Shelby County. photo by Lance Brisbois
 Little Sioux Unit of Loess HIlls State Forest in Harrison County. photo by Lance Brisbois U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service:Desoto National Wildlife Refuge near Missouri Valley is owned and managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Desoto has a daily entrance fee. By purchasing a yearly federal Duck Stamp, you can get into Desoto and all National Wildlife Refuges.  Waterfowl at Desoto NWR. photo by Carter Oliver County Conservation Boards: Iowa is unique in that each of our 99 counties has its own County Conservation Board, or CCB. Each CCB is allowed to have their own rules and regulations, so make sure you know which county you are in and learn their rules before visiting. They can vary within a county at different parks and wildlife areas–for example, hunting, camping, and dogs may be allowed in one county park but not another.  Hitchcock Nature Center. photo by Lance Brisbois Cities: Similar to county conservation boards, each city and different parks within the same city may have different rules. Many smaller parks, especially in small towns, are geared towards family-friendly activities like picnicking, and have recreational fields and courts for more organized sports.  Fairmount Park, owned & maintained by the City of Council Bluffs. photo by Lance Brisbois Land Trusts & Nonprofits: Several nonprofit organizations and land conservancies own and preserve wild lands in Iowa. Not all of these, however, are open to the public.
 Folsom Point Preserve in Mills County, owned & managed by The Nature Conservancy. photo by Lance Brisbois  Whiterock Conservancy in Guthrie County, a privately-owned land conservancy with public access. photo by Lance Brisbois Bike/Recreational Trails - Some trails in western Iowa are owned and managed by nonprofit organizations, and each trail has their own rules. Southwest Iowa Nature Trails, for example, maintains the Wabash Trace Nature Trail. Other trails are managed by their respective city.  Wabash Trace Nature Trail, maintained by Southwest Iowa Nature Trails. photo by Lance Brisbois Army Corps of Engineers: The US Army Corps of Engineers owns some land along the Missouri River. Public access varies. In other parts of Iowa and other states, the Corps owns and manages campgrounds and trails. Iowa Habitat & Access Program:
 Privately-owned IHAP ground in Harrison County with public hunting access. photo by Lance Brisbois Public waters
 Other private landowners
Most of Iowa’s land is privately owned. Many Iowans have land that they use primarily for recreation, including hunting, hiking, and fishing. These private lands are only accessible with landowner permission. Many landowners are receptive to friends and family using their land, but never try recreating on land unless you are certain that it is open to the public or you have explicit permission from the private landowner. Leave No Trace: Always recreate responsibly outdoors. This includes leaving public lands and waters better than you found them. If you notice that your activity is damaging a trail, stop and come back another day. Learn about the 7 Leave No Trace Principles here. 
East Nishnabotna River (photo by Seth Brooks)
Cold Springs Park, a 104-acre park managed by Cass County Conservation, is a long-time favorite of area residents. The park is one mile south of Lewis. A large camping area and a 16-acre lake provide numerous recreational opportunities, including fishing, swimming, and paddling.
Once you reach the East Nishnabotna, there are several ways to the river. The footpath on the north of the loop at the end of the trail leads to an access point requiring a short scramble down to the river. There is another access that leads to a sandy area. If water is low, you can also access the rock shelf from here. If water is high, however, you will need to scramble down the aforementioned path to reach the rock shelf.
The area is a popular destination for family picnics and swimming during the summer, but it has dangerous currents and deep water. There are some spots in the river that are thirty to forty feet deep. Additionally, the currents can create a whirlpool effect that can be dangerous even for very good swimmers. Unfortunately, several people have drowned over the years despite warnings. If you recreate at the Rock Cut, please take the warnings seriously.
Fishing at the Nishnabotna Rock Cut
Fishing at the Nishnabotna Rock Cut
Map via AllTrails. Note the trailhead's location in relation to the park's main entrance.
Check out the Summer 2024 newsletter for the East & West Nishnabotna River watershed below, or download a pdf here!   |
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