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Hiking the Byways: Monona County on the Loess Hills National Scenic Byway

2/24/2023

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This week's installment of Hiking the Byways takes us to Monona County on the Loess Hills National Scenic Byway.

The hiking in Monona County is incredible, with several different areas to explore the geologically unique Loess Hills, which reach their highest points in Monona County. The Preparation Canyon Unit of the Loess Hills State ​Forest, and the adjacent Preparation Canyon State Park, are the highlights of today's post. There are several specific trail recommendations; feel free to follow those or create your own adventure by hiking countless miles of trails in the state forest and state park.

If you wish to get off the beaten path, head to Sylvan Runkel State Preserve, Loess Hills Wildlife Area, or Turin Preserve Wildlife Area, all near the town of Castana.
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Preparation Canyon State Park

Preparation Canyon State Park, in the heart of the Loess Hills in western Iowa, encompasses 344 acres, including what used to be the town of Preparation. Today, Preparation Canyon is a quiet enclave offering backcountry hiking, picnicking, and beautiful views of the unique Loess Hills.

In 1853, Charles B. Thompson broke from the Utah-bound Mormon wagon trail and settled in this area. At one point, Preparation had sixty-seven houses, a school, newspaper, post office, skating rink and blacksmith shop. But by 1900, the town had all but faded away. The land was sold by descendants of the original settlers to the state of Iowa in parcels during the mid-20th century and became the state park.

Hike on one of the several trails that wind through the rugged Loess Hills. The backcountry trails follow hills and valleys, leading to a nature study area and the hike-in camping sites. Hikers should be prepared for rough terrain and loose soil with sturdy hiking shoes and appropriate gear.

Camp in one of ten hike-in camping sites, which are some of the only hike-in sites in the Iowa state park system. The trailhead to the hike-in sites is located in the southeast corner of the park. The sites each have a table and fire ring, but no bathroom facilities. Registration is on a first-come first-served basis with self-registration in the east parking lot.

text source: Iowa DNR

​Manager: Iowa DNR
Size: 344 acres​
Trails: 6 miles
GPS: 41.89921, -95.92094​ (main park entrance)
GPS: 41.88875, -95.89515​ (parking for backpacking campsites)
Camping: Yes, ten hike-in campsites
Amenities: Pit toilets, shelter, trails, hike-In campsites
Dogs: Yes, on leash
Hunting: Not in the state park but hunting is allowed in the adjacent state forest
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Preparation Canyon State Park (note: campsites 5, 6, 7, and 8 are labeled incorrectly)
Map of Preparation Canyon State Park
File Size: 695 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Campsite Loop

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Preparation Canyon State Park in winter (photo by Seth Brooks)
If you want to camp at Preparation Canyon State Park, this hike will take you past all ten of the campsites, allowing you to scout which sites are available and to your liking. Start at the parking lot in the southeast corner of the park, which is intended for backpackers who are camping overnight. This route does not visit the campsites in numerical order, rather it makes a  clockwise loop, with the exception of near the end where it makes another loop to visit the final three campsites. The benefit of this route is that you can leave all your gear in your car at the parking lot as you scout the campsites. After completing the loop, choose your campsite and pay at the self-pay station near the parking lot, then hike in to your campsite with your gear. Below is a brief description of each campsite. The GPX track linked below includes photos of each campsite.

Campsite #1 - Closest to the parking, thus the shortest hike of all the sites. Little privacy as it's right on the trail near the trailhead.
Campsite #2 - The second closest campsite to the parking lot but with a little more privacy, as it's below the trail and has some tree cover.
Campsite #3 - Located above the trail on a hillside. Exposed to the wind but perfect for stargazing on clear nights.
Campsite #4 - The best site for stargazing. It has a large, flat area for several tents.
Campsite #5 - One of the most secluded of the campsites and my personal favorite. While enjoying my morning coffee at this campsite, I saw a coyote hunting for rodents just fifty yards away.
Campsite #6 - Off the trail and with plenty of tree cover. A hot summer day can make this site uncomfortable.
Campsite #7 - The highest campsite in the park; not ideal if it's windy.
Campsite #8 - Perched above the canyon with good views amidst the timber, but with little privacy.
Campsite #9 - Along with #10, the most private of the sites but also the farthest hike. Set on the hillside deep in the canyon.
Campsite #10 - The most secluded but farthest from the parking lot. Set in a "bowl" with tall, steep canyon walls surrounding the campsite.

Distance: 5.52 miles
Elevation gain: 735 feet
Trail surface: Dirt and grass
Difficulty: Moderate 11 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.88875, -95.89515​ (parking for backpacking campsites)​
GPX Track: Preparation Canyon Campsite Loop (All Trails)
Picture
Campsite Loop at Preparation Canyon State Park
Map of Campsite Loop at Preparation Canyon State Park
File Size: 3746 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Canyon Loop

Picture
Preparation Canyon State Park (photo © 2016 Kenneth West)
This hike is perfect for day hikers who do not plan to overnight at the park. The trailhead is near the park's main entrance in the northwest corner of the park; take a left at the fork after the entrance gate. The hike descends into the canyon and follows it until a pond. This section can be extremely muddy in spring and after precipitation. The hike out of the canyon is incredibly steep. There is a spur trail about halfway up the climb that is slightly less steep, but your lungs will be burning nonetheless. The hike continues along a ridge before descending as you approach the backpacking parking lot. The hike up the prairie ridge allows sweeping views of Soldier River Valley and the park itself. The final stretch meanders through beautiful hardwood forest before climbing back up to the trailhead.

Distance: 3.24 miles
Elevation gain: 614 feet
Trail surface: Dirt and grass
Difficulty: Moderate 11 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.89540, -95.91383 (picnic area in NW corner of the park)
GPX Track: Preparation Canyon Loop (All Trails)
Picture
Canyon Loop at Preparation Canyon State Park
Map of Canyon Loop at Preparation Canyon State Park
File Size: 3647 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Loess Hills State Forest - Preparation Canyon Unit

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LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit (photo © 2016 Kenneth West)
Preparation Canyon Unit is 4,068 acres and located north of the town of Pisgah. The unit has a small fishing lake and numerous hiking trails. Visit the Scenic Overlook, showcasing spectacular views of the forest, prairies, Missouri River bottomlands, and across the Nebraska plains. Preparation Canyon State Park is located on the northeast corner of the Preparation Canyon Unit of the state forest. The park is also the historical site of the town of Preparation, a Mormon gathering place with an interesting history located in the southeast corner of the state park.

Manager: Iowa DNR
Size: 4,068 acres
Trails: More than 20 miles
Trailheads: Multiple trailheads with parking; refer to the map below 
Camping: Primitive camping is allowed throughout the state forest
Amenities: Shelter at Jones Creek Pond
Dog-friendly: Yes, on leash
Hunting: Yes​
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LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
Map of LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
File Size: 3006 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Loess Hills Scenic Overlook Trail

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Loess Hills Scenic Overlook (photo © 2016 Kenneth West)
There are about two miles of trails that begin at the Loess Hills Scenic Overlook. Two maps are provided below, one from the Iowa DNR that shows a one-mile loop, and another that utilizes trails in the southern section of this part of the state forest unit contiguous with the scenic overlook to make a 2.5-mile hike. Both hikes require a tricky descent from the ridge where a footbridge once traversed the cut in the ridge. The longer hike climbs back up the ridge to continue south towards County Road E60. Both hikes return to the scenic overlook by following the path along the east ridge that heads north towards Oak Avenue.
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Loess Hills Scenic Overlook Trail (photo by Seth Brooks)
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Loess Hills Scenic Overlook Trail (short loop)
Distance: 2.54 miles
Elevation gain: 381 feet
Trail surface: Dirt and grass
Difficulty: Moderate 9 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.90521, -95.94569
GPX Track: 
Loess Hills Scenic Overlook Trail, long loop (All Trails)​
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Loess Hills Scenic Overlook Trail (long loop)
Map of Loess Hills Scenic Overlook Trail (long loop)
File Size: 4072 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Sarah's Trail

Named after a young woman who tragically passed away after a horse riding accident, Sarah's Trail begins in Preparation Canyon State Park but shortly enters the state forest. The trail follows a ridge dense with eastern redcedar before descending to a corn field north of Jones Creek Pond. Head north along the edge of the field. The hike back up to the state park has two options: follow the GPX track below, which follows a footpath that is faint in places, or continue to the next valley to find another beaten footpath that ascends to the park entrance.

Distance: 3.30 miles
Elevation gain: 308 feet
Trail surface: Dirt and grass
Difficulty: Easy 7 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.89586, -95.91839​
GPX Track: Sarah's Trail (All Trails)​
Picture
Sarah's Trail (photo by Seth Brooks)
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Sarah's Trail at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
Map of Sarah's Trail at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
File Size: 4017 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Ridge Trail Loop

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Ridge Trail Loop in winter (photo by Seth Brooks)
This is one of my favorite hikes in the entire Loess Hills. The hike is strenuous and requires route-finding, but the rewards are ridgetop views and close encounters with wildlife. I wrote about this hike in detail in June 2021 for Golden Hills.

Distance: 6.6 miles
Elevation gain: 643 feet
Trail surface: Dirt, grass, and gravel roads
Difficulty: Moderate 11 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.87135, -95.92556​ (Jones Creek Pond)
GPX Track: Ridge Trail Loop (All Trails)​
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Ridge Trail Loop at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
Map of Ridge Trail Loop at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
File Size: 3883 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Ridge Trail Loop & Sarah's Trail

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Ridge Trail Loop in spring (photo by Lance Brisbois)
This hike combines the Ridge Trail Loop and Sarah's Trail for a challenging 10-mile trek through the state forest and state park. You can begin in the state park with Sarah's Trail, or follow the GPX track below which begins at Jones Creek Pond.

Distance: 9.97 miles
Elevation gain: 971 feet
Trail surface: Dirt, grass, and gravel roads
Difficulty: Challenging 14 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.87135, -95.92556​ (Jones Creek Pond)
GPX Track: Ridge Trail Loop & Sarah's Trail (All Trails)
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Ridge Trail Loop & Sarah's Trail at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
Map of Ridge Trail Loop & Sarah's Trail at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
File Size: 4463 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Jones Creek Pond Loop

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Jones Creek Pond (photo by Lance Brisbois)
The trails around Jones Creek Pond are great to explore any time of year: spring for wildflowers, summer under the shady tree canopy, fall for changing leaves, and winter for animal tracks and snowshoeing or cross-country skiing (remember to wear blaze orange during hunting season). If you combine the trails in the DNR map below, you can make a nice 3-mile loop around the lake. Per reports on All Trails in September 2022, however, the walking bridge on the north end of the pond was closed. If that is the case, you'll have to continue north to the road, where you can cross and complete the loop by connecting with mowed trails through the grass on each side of the stream that empties into the pond.

Distance: 3.04 miles
Elevation gain: 348 feet
Trail surface: Dirt and grass; footbridge on north end of the pond is closed as of Sept. 2022
Difficulty: Moderate 8 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.87135, -95.92556​ (Jones Creek Pond)
GPX Track: Jones Creek Pond (All Trails)​
Picture
Jones Creek Pond Loop at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
Map of Jones Creek Pond at LHSF Preparation Canyon Unit
File Size: 3186 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Preparation Canyon Overnight Route

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Overnight parking lot at Preparation Canyon State Park (photo by Seth Brooks)
There are more than 20 miles of trails between the state park and state forest, which makes the area one of the best in Iowa for backpacking. The main issue, however, is the availability of water. Due to the nature of the soil in the Loess Hills, there are few natural lakes. Farm ponds are options, but the few in the area likely have runoff from agricultural activities. Jones Creek Pond, however, is a reliable and likely safe source of water, provided that you filter, boil, or treat the water before consumption. The GPX track below combines the Campsite Loop in the state park with a short hike to Jones Creek Pond, where there is a primitive campsite on the west side of the pond. The grove of pines at the site provides shade and a comfortable base to pitch your tent. From here, you can explore the state forest via several trails. This recommendation makes for a long final day by hiking the first half of the Ridge Trail Loop to the Scenic Overlook, then returning to the state park via the second half of Ridge Trail Loop, Sarah's Trail, and the trails in the state park.​
Picture
Primitive campsite at Jones Creek Pond (photo by Seth Brooks)
Distance: 20.26 miles
Elevation gain: 2.388 feet
Trail surface: Dirt, grass, and gravel roads
Difficulty: Very Difficult 25 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 41.88875, -95.89515​ (parking for backpacking campsites)​
GPX Track: Preparation Canyon Overnight Route (All Trails)
Picture
Preparation Canyon Overnight Route
Map of Preparation Canyon Overnight Route
File Size: 4169 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

​Sylvan Runkel State Preserve

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Sylvan Runkel State Preserve (photo by Lance Brisbois)
Sylvan Runkel State Preserve is a 330-acre preserve containing an outstanding example of Iowa’s Loess Hills landscape, with extensive native prairie covering steep hills. The tracts comprising the preserve were acquired by the Iowa Conservation Commission in 1973 and 1980 as part of the 3,000-acre Loess Hills Wildlife Area. In 1985, the Loess Hills Wildlife Area (including the preserve area) became part of a 10,420-acre National Natural Landmark. In 1996, the preserve was established for its biological and geological significance, and named in memory of Sylvan Runkel.
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Click the above image to read about Sylvan Runkel State Preserve and others in Iowa
Manager: Iowa DNR
Size: 330 acres
Trails: No maintained trails but hiking permitted throughout​
GPS: 42.10281, -95.97124 (Oak Avenue)
Camping: No
Amenities: None
Dogs: Yes, on leash, however, no dogs are allowed during the nesting season from March 15 to July 15.​​
Hunting: No​​
Picture
Sylvan Runkel State Preserve (red boundary)
Distance: 3.12 miles
Elevation gain: 440 feet
Trail surface: Dirt and grass
Difficulty: Moderate 9 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 42.10292, -95.97129​
GPX Track: Sylvan Runkel State Preserve (All Trails)
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Map of Sylvan Runkel State Preserve (All Trails)
File Size: 4806 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Loess Hills Wildlife Area

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The Loess Hills Prairie Seminar is held at the wildlife area every summer (photo by Lance Brisbois)
T​he Loess Hills Wildlife Area is a 3.119-acre site of timber and prairie located just west of Castana. The area is a mixture of timber, primarily burr oak, red cedar and sumac, and native grass prairie. A number of Iowa threatened or endangered animals make their home here including the northern grasshopper mouse, plains pocket mouse and spadefoot toad. Wild turkeys and prairie chickens have been reintroduced. White-tail deer, fox squirrel, cottontail rabbit, coyote, raccoon and badger are common. Turkey vultures, bobwhite quail, ring-necked pheasant, whip-poor-will and many songbirds also exist in good populations. Controlled burns prevent brush and tree invasion and stimulate growth of prairie plants. The Loess Hills Prairie Seminar is held here every summer (intersection of Oak Avenue and 178th St).

Before visiting a public wildlife area, please check out Chapter 51 : Wildlife Management Areas.

Manager: Iowa DNR
Size: 3,119 acres
Trails: No maintained trails but hiking permitted throughout​
GPS: Multiple parking areas; refer to the map below.
Camping: Primitive
Amenities: None
Dogs: Yes, on leash, however, no dogs are allowed during the nesting season from March 15 to July 15.​​
Hunting: Yes (Deer, Turkey, Squirrel, Rabbit, Quail​)​​​
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Loess Hills Wildlife Management Area (boundaries in blue)

Turin Preserve Wildlife Area

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Turin Preserve Wildlife Area (photo by Golden Hills RC&D)
Turin Preserve Wildlife Area is a 220-acre area featuring a rugged Loess Hills landscape with an abrupt west-facing ridge. It is located in the southern unit of the 3,000-acre Loess Hills Wildlife Area, 2 miles north of Turin and 7.5 miles east of Onawa in Monona County. The Iowa Conservation Commission purchased the area in 1974. In 1978, the area was dedicated as a biological and geological state preserve and became part of a National Natural Landmark in 1986.​

​Before visiting a public wildlife area, please check out Chapter 51 : Wildlife Management Areas.

Manager: Iowa DNR
Size: 1,107 acres
Trails: No maintained trails but hiking permitted throughout​
GPS: Multiple parking areas; refer to the map below.
Camping: Primitive
Amenities: None
Dogs: Yes, on leash, however, no dogs are allowed during the nesting season from March 15 to July 15.​​
Hunting: Yes (Deer, Turkey, Squirrel, Pheasant, Rabbit, Quail​)​​​
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Turin Preserve Wildlife Management Area (boundaries in blue)

Whiting Woods

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Hitchman Nature Trail at Whiting Woods (photo by Seth Brooks)
This 80-acre tract of dense native timber is located 4 miles southwest of Mapleton and just east of the Loess Hills Scenic Byway on Peach Avenue.  Approximately 10 acres have been developed for camping, picnicking, hiking, and nature studies. A 1.6 mile trail takes you around the whole timber, with four benches for stopping and relaxing along the way.  An open shelter house, 3 camping pads with 30 amp hook-ups, drinking water, and vault type toilet facilities are available.  Upright/ground grills and picnic tables are also available. Whiting Woods is an excellent place to view wildlife and provides great hunting opportunities. Electric campsites are $20.00 per night, non-electric are $15.00 per night.  A 10:30 curfew is enforced for all visitors. We currently do not take reservations for camping at this park as it is first come, first serve. 

text source: Monona County Conservation

Manager: Monona County Conservation
Size: 80 acres
Trails: 1.6 miles
GPS: 42.13892, -95.88534​
Camping: Yes, electric and non-electric
Amenities: Camping, shelter, picnic area, vault toilet
Dogs: Yes, on leash
Hunting: Yes​​​
Picture
Whiting Woods (source: Monona County Conservation)
Distance:1.24 miles
Elevation gain: 174 feet
Trail surface: Dirt and grass
Difficulty: Easy 7 according to NW Hiker's Hike Difficulty Calculator
Trailhead: 42.13892, -95.88534
GPX Track: Hitchman Nature Trail at Whiting Woods (All Trails)
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Hitchman Nature Trail at Whiting Woods
The following areas, managed by Monona County Conservation, also allow hiking. Check the linked websites for more information.

Beaver Run Wildlife Area

Davis Wetland

Gramm Wetland
Gramm Wetland has a popular 2-mile walking trail.

Masters Prairie Trail
​This linear park is an abandoned railroad right of way, which consisting of 24 acres that have been smoothed and planted to native short grasses and wildflowers. The two-mile trail begins on the west side of the Maple River and follows Hwy. 141 to the west. It was purchased from the Rail Road in 1990, with money from NIPCO in return for a permanent easement for their power lines. Hunting is not allowed. 
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Loess Hills Scenic Overlook (photo © 2016 Kenneth West)
Hiking the Byways is a regular series by Golden Hills RC&D that features publicly accessible lands open to hiking on the three scenic byways in western Iowa that Golden Hills RC&D coordinates: Glacial Trail Scenic Byway, Loess Hills National Scenic Byway, and Western Skies Scenic Byway. Each Friday a blog post covers hiking areas in one county on one of the aforementioned byways. For questions about hiking on the byways, contact Seth Brooks (seth.brooks@goldenhillsrcd.org).
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