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As you drive along Western Skies Scenic Byway, you may not realize how the road systems are laid out across the landscape. The system starts in 1785, decades before Iowa was a state. “The Land Ordinance of 1785 was passed by the U.S. Congress under the Articles of Confederation. It laid out the process by which lands west of the Appalachian Mountains were to be surveyed and sold. The method of creating townships and sections within townships was used for all U.S. land after 1785” (Source: State Historical Society of Iowa). According to USGS, “The Public Land Survey System (PLSS) is a way of subdividing and describing land in the United States. PLSS surveys, which are available for portions of land in 30 southern and western states, are made by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The PLSS typically divides land into 6-mile-square townships. Townships are subdivided into 36 one-mile-square sections. Sections can be further subdivided into quarter sections, quarter-quarter sections, or irregular government lots.” As you drive east-west or north-south, you will typically cross a county gravel road every mile. There are some exceptions, however, such as when a river or other geologic feature creates a challenge to this grid, or where roads have been closed due to lack of local traffic. In some cases, the roads are still open but have become minimum-maintenance dirt roads. The Homestead Act of 1862 gave settlers 160 acres of land for free with the requirement that they farm the land for at least five years. This act used the PLSS with sections of 640 acres; quarter-sections of 160 acres, and “forties” of quarters of quarters. If you’ve ever heard the term “the back forty,” it’s a reference to this system! While a grid is easy to understand, it faces some challenges in the rolling topography of western Iowa. This “system has necessitated greater expenditures for such rural services as highways, telephone and power lines, mail delivery, and school-bus routes. In rough, dissected areas it has posed problems in the layout of transportation lines, and it has encouraged farmers to lay out their fields against the grain of the country, to the dismay of conservationists” (Source: John Fraser Hart, The Rural Landscape, p. 155). Imposing a grid of straight lines is difficult on a sphere, so “correction lines” were established within the PLSS grid. “A township line established every 24 miles north and south of the baseline as part of the U.S. Public Land Survey System and Canada's Dominion Land Survey. Surveyors created correction lines where they readjusted range lines to compensate for the convergence of meridians.” For a more detailed explanation of this system, check out this post.  Harrison County township & range map. Source: https://iagenweb.org/harrison/twp/rangemap.htm The county road system in each county is based on the mile-by-mile grid with numbered and named roads running perpendicular to each other:
 example of roads system in Audubon County. source: https://iowadot.gov/maps/msp/pdf/audubon-co.pdf At a higher level, the county highway system in Iowa has its own arrangement. The tier of counties where Western Skies lies includes east-west roads starting with the letter “F,” and north-south roads ranging from “K” in western Harrison County to “L” in most of Harrison County, “M” in Shelby County, “N” in Audubon and Guthrie counties, and “P” in eastern Guthrie County. If you are driving on F-16, for example, you can know that you are traveling on an east-west road. 
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Many people intuitively know that taking a walk in nature is beneficial, but significant research in recent years has confirmed this. Natural sights and sounds can reduce stress, improve mood, and improve overall mental health. One of the best summaries of some of these benefits is the 2015 paper “How might contact with nature promote human health? Promising mechanisms and a possible central pathway” by Ming Kuo. These excerpts from Kuo discuss several ways nature improves health, with supplemental source links: “The sights and sounds of nature also have important physiological impacts. Window views and images of nature reduce sympathetic nervous activity and increase parasympathetic activity (e.g., Gladwell et al., 2012; Brown et al., 2013), restore attention (e.g., Berto, 2005), and promote healing from surgery (Ulrich, 1984). Sounds of nature played over headphones increase parasympathetic activation (Alvarsson et al., 2010). These sympathetic and parasympathetic effects drive the immune system’s behavior (Kenney and Ganta, 2014), with long-term health consequences. Didehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) increases after a forest walk (Li et al., 2011); DHEA has cardio protective, anti-obesity, and anti-diabetic properties (Bjørnerem et al., 2004). Similarly, time in nature increases adiponectin (Li et al., 2011), which protects against atherosclerosis, among other things, and the immune system’s anti-cancer (so-called “Natural Killer,” or NK) cells and related factors. NK cells play important protective roles in cancer, viral infections, pregnancy, and other health outcomes (Orange and Ballas, 2006). Chronically elevated blood glucose carries multiple health risks, including blindness, nerve damage, and kidney failure (Sheetz and King, 2002). The powerful effects of a walk in a forest on blood glucose are particularly striking. Two 2-h forest walks on consecutive days increased the number and activity of anti-cancer NK cells by 50 and 56%, respectively, and activity remained significantly boosted even a month after returning to urban life — 23% higher than before the walks (Li, 2010). Moreover, extended time in a forest decreased inflammatory cytokines implicated in chronic disease by roughly one-half (Mao et al., 2012). Urban walks have no such effect.”  According to the American Psychological Association, “green spaces near schools promote cognitive development in children and green views near children’s homes promote self-control behaviors. Adults assigned to public housing units in neighborhoods with more green space showed better attentional functioning than those assigned to units with less access to natural environments. And experiments have found that being exposed to natural environments improves working memory, cognitive flexibility and attentional control.” APA also suggests that “children who lived in neighborhoods with more green space had a reduced risk of many psychiatric disorders later in life.” Additionally, “contact with nature is associated with increases in happiness, subjective well-being, positive affect, positive social interactions and a sense of meaning and purpose in life, as well as decreases in mental distress.” There’s even some evidence that time in nature can make people more cooperative and generous. Interactions with nature can positively influence behaviour, academic performance and social skills in children, something that could be reflected in school curricula (e.g., environmental experience components) and could have broader benefits, such as reducing bullying in schools. Another study found that “participants who listened to nature sounds like crickets chirping and waves crashing performed better on demanding cognitive tests than those who listened to urban sounds like traffic and the clatter of a busy café.” There is also consistent evidence from birth cohort studies that higher greenness during pregnancy is positively associated with birth weight.  Nature and Forest Therapy is a burgeoning activity across the world. “Forest therapy is based on forest bathing, or shinrin-yoku, a Japanese practice that has garnered attention for its ability to immerse people into their natural environment. It helps people take a deep breath and rediscover our true essence, to remember our purpose and how we can serve the world. By immersing ourselves in nature and engaging our senses, we can reap the many benefits of forest therapy such as improved immune function, cardiovascular and respiratory health, and reduced stress and depression.” “The results of studies performed on the physiological effects of Shinrin-yoku show that forest environments could lower concentrations of cortisol, lower pulse rate, lower blood pressure, increase parasympathetic nerve activity, and lower sympathetic nerve activity compared with city settings. The results of the physiological measurements suggest that Shinrin-yoku can aid in effectively relaxing the human body, and the psychological effects of forest areas have been correlated with the various physical environmental factors of forest. The studies of Shinrin-yoku provide valuable insights into the relationship between forests and human health. Incorporating nature into cities has long been known to provide health benefits of improved air quality and reduce the urban heat island effect. There’s even evidence that natural landscapes in cities can help reduce crime rates. “Comparing buildings with different levels of vegetation, those with high levels of vegetation recorded 52% fewer total crimes, 48% fewer property crimes, and 56% fewer violent crimes than buildings with low levels of vegetation. Even modest amounts of greenery were associated with lower crime rates.” “These results suggest that vegetation is indeed related to criminal activity across the city, and that vegetation abundance is associated with lower crime rates for assault, robbery, and burglary. The association of vegetation with crime rates for these offense types remains even after accounting for the relationship of socioeconomic indicators of disadvantage, including poverty and educational attainment.” Further, walks in forested, but not urban areas, reduce the levels of health risk factors, specifically inflammatory cytokines (Mao et al., 2012), and elevated blood glucose (Ohtsuka et al., 1998). Inflammatory cytokines are released by the immune system in response to threat, and have been implicated in diabetes, cardiovascular disease, and depression.  Tree-lined streets and small city parks can offer little bits of nature for urban residents. photo by Lance Brisbois One other factors contributing to nature’s healing properties are the smells and ions associated with nature. “Many plants give off phytoncides — antimicrobial volatile organic compounds — which reduce blood pressure, alter autonomic activity, and boost immune functioning, among other effects. The air in forested and mountainous areas, and near moving water, contains high concentrations of negative air ions, which reduce depression among other effects. These environments also contain mycobacterium vaccae, a microorganism that appears to boost immune functioning.” Being on or near water in nature also has many benefits, in what some call the “Blue Mind Theory.”  Sun exposure, with some basic safety precautions (avoid sunburn and don’t look directly at the sun!) generally has many health benefits too. Getting outdoors and seeing sunlight first thing in the morning is one of the best ways to regulate circadian rhythms and develop healthy sleep patterns. Vitamin D is created by sunlight on the skin, and food and supplement sources of vitamin D are not nearly as bioavailable. More than 40% of Americans are estimated to have a Vitamin D deficiency. Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, outdoor activities were seen as much safer than indoor ones. Risks of spreading COVID and many other illnesses are significantly lower outdoors with fresh air and sunlight. Today, most people spend too much time indoors, inactive, and looking at blue-light screens. Air quality is often significantly worse indoors compared to outdoors, with volatile organic compounds, mold, and particulate matter from things like paint, carpet, plastics, and other materials. Simply opening windows and adding indoor plants can help improve indoor air quality. Another interesting affect of nature is the activity of viewing fractals. Fractals, or repeating patterns, are abundant in nature, such as in tree branches and snowflakes. Viewing fractals has been shown to reduce stress and help people heal more quickly.  examples of fractals in nature. Image source: https://medium.com/re-write/exploring-fractal-patterns-e161081f9723 Cardio and strength training can also be done outdoors combining the benefits of both. Instead of a treadmill, stationary bike, or stair-climbing machine, try hiking, biking, or jogging in a local park. Getting out in nature with friends and family can provide much-needed human connectedness and socialization in a culture of increasingly isolated and lonely individuals. Nature can also, on the other hand, provide people a way to get out and away from the stresses created by the hustle & bustle of modern life. Time in nature often provides us with a sense of awe. “The physiological experience of awe – goosebumps, dropped jaws, caught breath – is wonderful in itself, but research suggests that regularly feeling wonder can have a range of benefits for our physical and mental wellbeing as well as increasing our compassion, generosity and critical thinking ability.” With all of these benefits, it’s no surprise that some doctors are now prescribing time outdoors for a variety of physical & mental health ailments, including the Park Rx and Prescription Trails programs. On a broader scale, populations with easy access to nature tend to be healthier. Iowa is the most physically-altered (least natural) state. It is likely not a coincidence, then, that Iowa has some of the least-healthy counties in the U.S., and the second-highest cancer rate. Integrating nature back into the landscape of Iowa could help us become healthier, happier, and safer.  County health rankings for Iowa. Source: https://www.countyhealthrankings.org/health-data/iowa?year=2024 Other links & resources on this topic:
Many farms across Iowa are working to build healthy soils, improve water quality, and more through regenerative agricultural practices. Here are a few examples from farms we've visited recently. Hawkeye Buffalo & Cattle Ranch near Fredericksburg has about 30 bison, 20 hereford cattle, and some crop and hay ground. Bison were the original prairie grazers, with a population in the tens of millions–possibly 100 million or more! After colonization, however, their numbers dwindled to only a few hundred. Restoration efforts, including many privately-owned ranches like Hawkeye, have increased the bison population back to a few hundred thousand.  Cattle at Hawkeye Buffalo & Cattle Ranch. Photo by Lance Brisbois  Cattle at Hawkeye Buffalo & Cattle Ranch. Photo by Lance Brisbois Joia Food & Fiber Farm near Charles City is another regenerative Iowa farm implementing numerous innovative practices. Wendy Johnson’s grandparents owned the farm and Wendy moved back to run it. The achieved Organic certification in 2014 and have been adding more organic acres since then. The farm had been only corn and soy, but they have added oats into their rotation. They have also added pasture land, and incorporated polypay and ile-de-France sheep. Joia also has cattle that run through the paddocks after the sheep, and custom-graze some Hereford cows. Joia’s livestock are Certified Grass-fed and Animal Welfare Approved. They run about 100 chickens at a time as well. Joia is one of the first farms in Iowa growing kernza, a perennial grain with deep root systems. They have noticed much more birds and wildlife in the kernza fields compared to other surrounding crops. In addition to livestock, Joia has a micro orchard with chestnut, pawpaw, persimmon, & other tree crops, as well as a silvopasture of hardwood species. Their enhanced windbreak also includes plums, elderberry, serviceberry, and choke berries.  Farmer Wendy Johnson at Joia Food Farm. photo by Lance Brisbois  Enhanced windbreak at Joia Food Farm. Photo by Lance Brisbois Ancestral Farms recently moved from near Waverly to Clarke County, south of Des Moines. Owner Matt Hatala is redefining modern hog farming by rejecting the conventional use of confinement buildings, opting instead to raise pigs on pasture and in the woods. Ancestral Farms' commitment goes beyond simply returning pigs to their natural environment; they exclusively breed Heritage Old Line genetics, harkening back to an era when meat quality was paramount in the pork industry. This dedication, coupled with a diet supplemented only with non-GMO feed, results in pork with unparalleled taste and marbling, a quality rarely found in grocery stores or even most butcher shops. Looking ahead, Ancestral Farms plans to establish a silvopasture system next spring, enhancing the habitat not only for their hogs but also for the diverse wildlife that thrives on their farm.  Pigs at Ancestral Farms. photo by Lance Brisbois  Matt Hatala leading a farm tour at Ancestral Farms. photo by Lance Brisbois Hoksey Native Seeds is based in Jasper County and grows a wide variety of native grasses and forbs. They specialize in local ecotype species and custom-design mixes for their customers. Their customers include farmers and landowners who implement Conservation Reserve Program and hunting plots, as well as smaller-scale backyard gardeners, native lawns, and more. They also have a popular conservation podcast, the Prairie Farm Pod.  Field of butterfly milkweed at Hoksey Native Seed. photo by Lance Brisbois  Field of echinacea at Hoksey Native Seed. photo by Lance Brisbois Golden Hills is working with farmers in southwest Iowa to implement regenerative practices through our Historically Underserved Farmer program. This includes innovative practices like some of those mentioned above, including diversifying crop and livestock systems. Learn more here.
Western Iowa has many places for the public to explore and enjoy the great outdoors. These include parks, trails, wildlife areas, lakes, rivers, and more. Ownership and management of these amenities vary widely, including federal, state, county, and city governments, to nonprofits and other private owners. This post aims to help clarify some of the differences. There are many exceptions to the ‘rules,’ however, so you can always contact the local site manager before visiting if you have questions. If you aren’t sure what activities are or are not allowed at a specific site, contact the land manager directly to make sure you’re following the rules. Iowa Department of Natural Resources is the state agency that manages state-owned conservation and recreation lands. These include:
 Prairie Rose State Park in Shelby County. Owned and Managed by Iowa DNR. photo by Lance Brisbois
 Loess Hills Wildlife Area in Monona County. photo by Lance Brisbois State Preserves: Iowa’s state preserves “are dedicated for the permanent protection of significant natural and cultural features. Most are open to hiking and photography…Many preserves do not contain officially established trails, but an informal footpath often leads from the parking lot toward prominent features.  Dinsen Prairie State Preserve in Shelby County. photo by Lance Brisbois
 Little Sioux Unit of Loess HIlls State Forest in Harrison County. photo by Lance Brisbois U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service:Desoto National Wildlife Refuge near Missouri Valley is owned and managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Desoto has a daily entrance fee. By purchasing a yearly federal Duck Stamp, you can get into Desoto and all National Wildlife Refuges.  Waterfowl at Desoto NWR. photo by Carter Oliver County Conservation Boards: Iowa is unique in that each of our 99 counties has its own County Conservation Board, or CCB. Each CCB is allowed to have their own rules and regulations, so make sure you know which county you are in and learn their rules before visiting. They can vary within a county at different parks and wildlife areas–for example, hunting, camping, and dogs may be allowed in one county park but not another.  Hitchcock Nature Center. photo by Lance Brisbois Cities: Similar to county conservation boards, each city and different parks within the same city may have different rules. Many smaller parks, especially in small towns, are geared towards family-friendly activities like picnicking, and have recreational fields and courts for more organized sports.  Fairmount Park, owned & maintained by the City of Council Bluffs. photo by Lance Brisbois Land Trusts & Nonprofits: Several nonprofit organizations and land conservancies own and preserve wild lands in Iowa. Not all of these, however, are open to the public.
 Folsom Point Preserve in Mills County, owned & managed by The Nature Conservancy. photo by Lance Brisbois  Whiterock Conservancy in Guthrie County, a privately-owned land conservancy with public access. photo by Lance Brisbois Bike/Recreational Trails - Some trails in western Iowa are owned and managed by nonprofit organizations, and each trail has their own rules. Southwest Iowa Nature Trails, for example, maintains the Wabash Trace Nature Trail. Other trails are managed by their respective city.  Wabash Trace Nature Trail, maintained by Southwest Iowa Nature Trails. photo by Lance Brisbois Army Corps of Engineers: The US Army Corps of Engineers owns some land along the Missouri River. Public access varies. In other parts of Iowa and other states, the Corps owns and manages campgrounds and trails. Iowa Habitat & Access Program:
 Privately-owned IHAP ground in Harrison County with public hunting access. photo by Lance Brisbois Public waters
 Other private landowners
Most of Iowa’s land is privately owned. Many Iowans have land that they use primarily for recreation, including hunting, hiking, and fishing. These private lands are only accessible with landowner permission. Many landowners are receptive to friends and family using their land, but never try recreating on land unless you are certain that it is open to the public or you have explicit permission from the private landowner. Leave No Trace: Always recreate responsibly outdoors. This includes leaving public lands and waters better than you found them. If you notice that your activity is damaging a trail, stop and come back another day. Learn about the 7 Leave No Trace Principles here. |
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