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Parallel to Iowa's Loess
Hills, the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail traces the route used
by Captains Meriwether Lewis and William Clark in 1804 and 1806 when they
led their Corps of Discovery through this region. Although not the
first whites to see the Loess Hills, they were possibly the first to write
about them.
"Bald-pated,"
Clark described the hills, then almost covered with prairie, near
present-day Waubonsie State Park. However, in 1804 the men were not
exploring the hills; they wanted a passage to the Pacific Ocean. So
up the Missouri River they went, using poles, oars, ropes and sails to
move a 55-foot-long keelboat full of supplies and two smaller boats called
pirogues. Replicas of the boats are at Lewis and Clark State Park.
On July 21, Silas Goodrich caught a
white catfish near what is now Lake Manawa State Park. Establishing
a camp called White Fish Encampment, the men spent six days there, their
longest rest since setting out more than two months earlier.
Although the Corps had often seen signs
of Indians, they did not meet one until July 28 when George Drouillard met
a Misourie and brought him to camp. After arranging to meet some
Indian leaders (most were away hunting), Lewis and Clark met six Oto and
Missourie on August 3 for a council below a bluff near what is now Fort
Atkinson State Park in Nebraska. After meeting, the captains called
the entire region Council Bluffs.
On
August 5, the men made more than 20 miles, fantastic mileage going
upriver, but that evening Clark realized they had simply rounded a large
bend and were camping just 370 yards from that morning's campsite.
While in the area, the men became the
first whites to see a badger; court-martialed and flogged a deserter; and
saw the waters of the Missouri turn white when feathers molted by pelicans
formed a feathery blanket measuring three miles long.
On August 13, near present-day Snyder
Bend Lake, the expedition passed the remains of a trading post built by
Scotsman James McKay in 1795 while working for the Spanish. Nearby,
they found an Omaha village empty, its people killed by smallpox four
years earlier.
A week later near Sioux City, Sergeant
Charles Floyd died, apparently of appendicitis. The only person to
die on the entire journey, Floyd was buried atop a hill overlooking the
Missouri where his remains still lie beneath the Sgt. Floyd Monument.
Just more than two years later, on
September 3, 1806, the Corps returned to the area and encountered two
canoes of men coming up the Missouri. Led by Scotsman James Aird,
the group shared news of the day with the long-gone Americans.
The next morning, with tobacco and flour
provided by Aird, the Americans set off downriver and visited Floyd's
grave. Then they returned to the Missouri on which they were now
making up to 80 miles a day.
About a week later, the Corps reached
today's Iowa-Missouri border and on September 23, arrived in St. Louis, 28
months and 8,000 miles after they had last seen it.
To learn more about Lewis and Clark near
the Loess Hills, visit the Iowa Welcome Centers at Council Bluffs,
Missouri Valley, Sergeant Bluff and Sioux City.
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